Set in a barycentric position between Genoa, Tigullio, the Alta Via dei Monti Liguri and the Val d’Aveto, the Val Fontanabuona runs parallel to sea (a rarity for Liguria, where as a rule valleys stand perpendicularly to the coast) for 20 kms. along the Lavagna stream and the strada statale 225. the area provides plenty of cultural resources, museums, excursions, ancient crafts (silk and damask), hearty recipes (the output of pastures and orchards), lively fairs and – last but not least – slate. Slate stands for most of local history and economy, the toponym Lavagna deriving in fact from the black stone dug out by quarrymen and hurriedly carried to the ports of the coast (often by barefoot women). Specifically employed in the manufacture of boards and billiards, nowadays slate presents innovative uses in exclusive house building – stairs, portals, shelves… - , in the restoration of historical centres and in the production of ornaments. In Italy, slate immediately means Fontanabuona (Orero, Cicagna…), a small business district composed of a hundred specialized industries giving work to nearly 800 people.
Many routes reach the valley: from Genoa, past the straight Bargagli-Ferriere tunnel, from Recco along the gentle strada statale 333 to Avegno and Uscio, from Chiavari through Carasco up the course of the river. The whole region shows an abundance of woods (beeches, chestnuts, hazelnuts…local forests are the perfect Autumn mushroom hunting venue!) interspersed with cultivated areas, vineyards and olive groves.
The climate of the Fontanabuona being mild all year round, this is the ideal destination to experience relaxing holidays, sports sessions (mountain biking, hiking, horse-riding…) and gourmet tours – the range of opportunities make up a mosaic of wellbeing for both body and soul.
The term mosaic is not accidental – hamlets and villages dot the place and form a mosaic-like pattern of specific identities, habitats, traditions and feasts – each worth careful further investigation (and gastronomy research as well).
What’s up in Fontanabuona? Which are the main shopping and tasting hints? Following is a selection of highlights you are strongly recommended to enlarge at your own pleasure.
Avegno: the artisan bell foundries, a succulent portion of trofie (pasta twists) al pesto and the sight of graceful cottages scattered through woods and olive trees.
Bargagli: the Christmas joy of stone and slate presepi, the all year round view of the ancient aqueduct, the wealth of churches and oratories reminding of the strength of local popular devotion (Bargagli probably derives its name from German “berg”, a polysemic word referring to mountains and to their proud inhabitants).
Carasco: the history of an animated valley centre, the ruins of the Rivarola castle on the hill and – here and there – a handful of heroic vineyards.
Cicagna: the Slate Museum, the bridges, the mosaics, the textile tradition and the art of bread making.
Cogorno: the magic of the Medieval basilica of San Salvatore dei Fieschi, since 1860 a national monument, with its extraordinary black and white façade, marble rose window and stunning bell tower – the enchantment of the place enhanced by the harmony of oratory and Palazzo Comitale, too...